The Japan Travel Series

• Part 1: Planning, Packing & Booking Our Dream Japan Trip
• Part 2: 5 Days in Tokyo: Shibuya Sky, TeamLab Planets & ASMR Head Spa
• Part 3: Coastal Kamakura: Bamboo Forests, Mt. Fuji & Traditional Onsens
• Part 4: Kyoto & Nara Realities: Bullet Trains, Deer Parks & Cultural Sights (You are here)
• Part 5: Tropical Okinawa & The 26-Hour Journey Home: Is It Worth Visiting?

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Introduction

Leaving the peaceful coastal charm of Kamakura behind, we boarded the iconic Shinkansen bullet train and set our sights west on Kyoto – the cultural heart of Japan.

Kyoto is a city that every travel vlog, guide, and social media post raves about. With its historical temples, traditional wooden tea houses, and promised sightings of geishas, our expectations were incredibly high. However, our time in Kyoto and nearby Nara proved to be our biggest eye-opener of the entire trip. From incredible station ramen and meeting local cat celebrities to navigating overstimulation, aggressive deer, and the realities of modern tourism, here is what our time in Kyoto was really like.

Day 8 (29 June 2026): Travelling to Kyoto

In the morning after breakfast, we checked out of the hotel and made our way via the train to Shinagawa where we’d be meeting the bullet train to take us to Kyoto. On arriving there, our room wasn’t quite ready at the hotel, so we decided to get ramen topped with tempura at the station. Once checked in, we realised it was probably a good time to go and seek out a coin laundry to do some washing. We wandered around a department store while waiting and I got a coffee at Tully’s. After the laundry was done, we hopped on a train to go see Fushimi Inari shrine – we didn’t end up walking to the summit of it but still had a lovely time seeing it. In the evening, we visited the hotel bar to get some drinks.

Best Moments:

• Station Tempura: The tempura at the station ramen shop was so good – I thought I’d had nice tempura here in the UK but it’s so much better in Japan!
• Affordable Laundry: Coin laundry is incredibly affordable – we were shocked at how much we were paying at our old university halls vs how cheap it is in Japan. Also, nobody messes with your stuff unlike in the UK!
• Shrine Celebrity Cat: When visiting the shrine, we saw an adorable cat who posed for photos for me. I’ve come to learn that lots of other people have met the same cat and he’s somewhat of a celebrity there now!
• Observing Bar Culture: The hotel bar was really nice – it was dimly lit and had a nice vibe. It was also filled with Japanese salarymen out drinking with their boss. It was so interesting to see work/drinking culture first hand after seeing so many people talk about it online.

Lessons Learned:

• Heat & Sun Protection: Arriving at Kyoto was our first real experience of hot Japanese weather – it had been pretty rainy and average temperatures up until now. I wish I’d taken wearing sunscreen and bug spray seriously at this point as I started to burn on the shoulders and got bitten by some bugs at the shrine (nothing bad, just more annoying than anything else).
• Missing Out on Ekiben: We forgot/didn’t have time to buy a bento before getting onto the bullet train – everyone recommends doing it but for some reason, we missed out. Still gutted about it!

Day 9 (30 June 2026): The Real Kyoto

We had decided randomly the night before that we were going to take a trip down to Nara to see the deer. There were slight delays due to a train derailing early morning, but it didn’t affect us. Once there, we bought crackers and attempted to feed the deer but quickly realised how aggressive they are. A local guide approached us asking if we’d like to go on a tour – we politely declined but he suggested we walk to a pavilion close by where lots of tourists don’t bother walking to. While there, we saw lots of fawns and the area was really beautiful.

Once we had finished in the deer park, we took the train to central Kyoto to visit the market and try to see some of the classic sights you think of when someone mentions Kyoto. Firstly, we got lunch at a ramen shop that specialised in curry ramen. After this, we walked to Nishiki Market where I got my hair done with Kanzashi (Japanese hair sticks) – this had been on my bucket list after seeing a video online. Once finished there, we walked to Shinbashi Dori where everyone had recommended we go for the ‘real’ experience of Kyoto. After getting a taxi back to the hotel (we were really tired), we saw a whisky bar nearby so decided to stop by for a drink. Following that, we had a wander to a shrine near our hotel, but it was closed so we were only able to see from the outside. We didn’t do much that evening as we had a flight to catch the next day so spent time ensuring our luggage was organised for that.

Best Moments:

• Nara & The Hidden Pavilion: Seeing the Nara deer was a really cool experience, I didn’t think we would have time for it during our trip, so it was nice to be able to squeeze it in. I’m also really grateful the guide directed us to go and see the pavilion – somewhere we’d never have known about ourselves!
• Kanzashi Hair Styling: Getting my hair done in the market was such a lovely experience, the staff were really sweet!
• Nishiki Market: The market itself was a really cool place to visit, highly recommended!
• Wasabi Cocktails: At the bar, I had a drink made with wasabi – such a unique and interesting flavour!

Lessons Learned:

• Aggressive Deer: If you’re nervous of animals, feeding the deer probably isn’t for you. They kick, bite and headbutt when they see you have food.
• Overstimulation: While I loved getting my hair done, it was a little bit too touristy for me – the prices for the hair sticks are quite high and the shop and market area is incredibly busy with tourists. In the high temperatures, it’s an overwhelming, overstimulating experience.
• Managing Kyoto Expectations: I’m not sure whether people overhype Kyoto or whether we just went to the ‘wrong’ places but we didn’t personally see anything particularly special – no geishas or maiko walking around, all of the buildings were shut during the daytime and I have no idea how you make reservations for an authentic tea house experience as I didn’t see any advertising anywhere. We also didn’t see any of the cool buildings or ancient shops people often show in photos. As a word of warning, if you visit Kyoto, be sure to take care while planning so you actually see what you’re looking for – it’s a big place and easy to waste time travelling or in the wrong area vs where you need to be.

Part 4 Summary: Expectations vs. Reality

Kyoto was a powerful lesson in how online perception doesn’t always match the reality on the ground. While we had some wonderful moments – from meeting the famous Fushimi Inari cat and sipping wasabi cocktails to escaping the crowds in Nara thanks to a helpful local guide – Kyoto also felt the most tourist-heavy, overstimulating, and difficult to navigate.

If you are planning a trip to Kyoto, careful planning and realistic expectations are essential. It is a massive, sprawling city, and finding those serene, magical moments often requires looking past the glossy Instagram clips and doing your own research.

Ready for Part 5?

In the final instalment of our Japan itinerary, we trade the mainland for paradise as we fly south to tropical Okinawa! Join us for beach days, island exploration, and the honest review of our gruelling 26-hour journey home back to the UK.