The Japan Travel Series

• Part 1: Planning, Packing & Booking Our Dream Japan Trip
• Part 2: 5 Days in Tokyo: Shibuya Sky, TeamLab Planets & ASMR Head Spa
• Part 3: Coastal Kamakura: Bamboo Forests, Mt. Fuji & Traditional Onsens (You are here)
• Part 4: Kyoto & Nara Realities: Bullet Trains, Deer Parks & Cultural Sights
• Part 5: Tropical Okinawa & The 26-Hour Journey Home: Is It Worth Visiting?

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Introduction

Leaving the neon lights and relentless energy of Tokyo behind, our journey took us south toward the coast to Kamakura. Known for its rich samurai history, grand temples, coastal views, and lush greenery, it offered the exact change of pace I was craving after five days in the capital.

However, our arrival coincided with a typhoon moving across the region, bringing heavy downpours and nervous checks of transport alerts. Yet, as the rain cleared to reveal views of Mount Fuji across the bay, Kamakura delivered some of the most tranquil, eye-opening, and soul-restoring moments of our entire trip.

Day 6 (27 June 2026): Kamakura and the Typhoon

We journeyed down from Tokyo to Kamakura with a bit of anxiety, as warnings were posted everywhere about potential typhoon-related train delays. Luckily, we arrived smoothly and checked into the Kamakura Prince Hotel. We spent a quiet afternoon relaxing in our room, watching the rain lash down over the ocean. As the storm clouds finally parted, we were treated to a magnificent sight: Mount Fuji standing tall across the water! In the evening, we enjoyed a seasonal cocktail at the hotel bar before heading out for what was quite possibly the best ramen of my life, followed by a late-night wander through a local Japanese supermarket.

Best Moments:

• The Enoden Railway: I had seen the iconic green Enoden train line featured so many times on social media, but I never realised it was the actual local railway we’d be taking to get to our hotel! Coming from Wales near the Brecon Mountain Railway, I found it so funny and endearing how completely obsessed everyone is with this train – it’s a full-blown tourist attraction with its own themed souvenirs.
• Hotel Views: While the Kamakura Prince Hotel is a bit older in style, it carries a quiet, understated luxury. Watching the ocean, Enoshima Island, and Mount Fuji from our window was breathtaking.
• Sensational Ramen & Duolingo Win: We found an incredible Tonkotsu ramen shop with a gorgeously rich pork broth, accompanied by a traditional overflowing sake pour. Having studied Japanese on Duolingo for three months before the trip, I took huge pride in finally recognising a word in the wild when the host greeted us with “Konbanwa” (“Good evening”)!
• Mochi Mystery: While exploring the supermarket, Mike picked up what he assumed was a sweet red bean mochi ball. It turned out to be savoury and filled with a texture identical to baked beans! Watching his reaction was hilarious.
• Luggage Forwarding Magic: Our luggage forwarding service worked flawlessly – our heavy suitcases were already waiting inside our hotel room when we checked in. Given the state of parcel delivery back in the UK, I half-expected to never see my bag again!

Lessons Learned:

• Restaurant Rejections: Before finding our ramen spot, we tried to dine at the hotel-owned sushi restaurant but were turned away on the grounds that there were no open tables – despite seeing several empty tables inside. All the other patrons were Japanese. Prior to our trip, a few people had mentioned that some local venues can be hesitant with Western tourists (due to language barriers as just one example). While I can’t say for certain if that was the reason, it was a notable experience.
• Hotel Pool Seasons: We were gutted to find out the hotel’s outdoor pool was closed. Japanese hotel pools tend to have remarkably short operating seasons compared to the UK and other Western countries, where people will happily swim in cold weather!

Day 7 (28 June 2026): Traditional Sights and Getting Naked

After breakfast, we caught a local bus up to the Hokokuji Bamboo Forest—a deliberate choice to experience serene bamboo groves without the overwhelming crowds of Kyoto’s Arashiyama. After enjoying fresh matcha at a hidden tea house tucked in the forest, we headed into Kamakura town for a gorgeous lunch at a family-owned sushi restaurant and grabbed dessert from a street vendor. In the afternoon, we visited the Great Buddha of Kamakura at Kotoku-in temple before heading across to Enoshima Island to visit Enospa, a seaside onsen. On our way back to the hotel, I picked up my first-ever authentic matcha latte from a street seller.

Best Moments:

• Local Travel: Taking the local bus up into the hills to the bamboo forest was a core memory. That was the exact moment we stopped feeling like package tourists and truly felt like independent travellers.
• Matcha in the Bamboo: Sitting in the forest tea house, listening to the rain fall, and sipping authentic whisked matcha surrounded by towering bamboo was pure bliss.
• Connecting Over Sushi: Chatting with the sushi chef using Google Translate was deeply special. He was genuinely curious about what had brought two Welsh people all the way to Kamakura and loved hearing about our trip. The sushi was out of this world.
• Atmospheric Buddha: Heavy rain set in just as we reached the Great Buddha at Kotoku-in. I was initially worried about photo quality, but the moody rainfall gave the massive bronze statue an incredibly dramatic, spiritual atmosphere that looked even better than on a sunny day.
• The Onsen Experience: Visiting Enospa on Enoshima Island was transformative. While they have mixed-gender pool areas where you wear swimwear and admire the ocean views, trying out the traditional, gender-segregated, clothes-free indoor onsen was incredible. It completely shifted my perspective on body image, modesty, and how freeing it is to realise that absolutely no one is judging you.
• Matcha Conversion: The fresh matcha latte I bought on the street changed my mind forever. I used to think I hated matcha, but tasting a real, high-quality Japanese preparation converted me instantly – I am now a complete matcha snob!

Lessons Learned:

• Kamakura Buddha Crowds: The walk along the main street leading up to the Great Buddha is extremely congested with tour groups and shoppers. We didn’t allow enough transit time for the crowds and had to rush a bit – definitely factor in extra time when walking through popular temple towns.

Part 3 Summary: The Peaceful Reset We Needed

Kamakura was the exact remedy we needed after the fast-paced intensity of Tokyo. The combination of ocean air, lush bamboo, rich bowls of ramen, and the quiet calm of an onsen allowed us to recharge our batteries completely.

It taught us that travel in Japan isn’t just about ticking famous sights off a list – it’s about learning to slow down, embrace the unexpected moments (even typhoon rain and savoury bean mochi!), and immerse yourself in the culture.

Ready for Part 4?

In the next post, we board the famous Shinkansen bullet train and head west to Kyoto and Nara where we navigate massive temple crowds, encounter free-roaming deer, and deal with the honest realities of overtourism.